Collar



J. M. VAN HEUSEN.

COLLAR.- APPLICATION man JAN. 22. 1916.

1 352 563. Patented Sept. 14, 1920.

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JOHN MANNING va I-IEUSEN, or JAMAICA P AIN, ivrnssnoirusnrrs. I

, COLLAR.

- make and use the same.

This invention relates to turned-down collars of seamless. fabric, and particularly-to collars of multiply fabric which. is sufiiciently stiff to maintainthe shape of the collar withoutthe employment of starch, while nevertheless sufficiently pliable to assume the necessary curvature to fit the neck of the wearer without undue rigidity. In making turned-down collars from seamless fabric, and particularly from multiply fabricof the nature referred to, it is important that the collar should be so constructed that it will fit and set properly upon the neck-band of the shirt; and around the neck a of the wearer. Where there is no line of division between the outer turned-down portion and the neck-bandportion of the collar, or. even where such a natural line of fold is provided, as by the omission of several threads from one or more of the plies of a multiply fabric with resulting formation of a weakened fold portionof increased flexibility, the folding of thefabric along a straight fold results in a tendency ofthe inner neck-band portion to be gathered or puckered, with respect to the outer turneddown portion. If a collar of this nature is worn, it has been foundthat it will not fit properly around the'neck of the wearer,

even where the collar fits tightly around the neck-band of the shirt, unless special provision is made in the design and structionof the collar.

This disadvantage can be overcome by making a natural curve in the fabric and by weaving the outer turned-down portion longer than the inner portion. This method of constructing collars, however, forms no part of the present invention, which has to .do more particularly with fabrics of a uniform nature throughout, or fabrics which have a natural-line of fold provided therein and which are otherwise of a uniform construction.

Where the line of fold is a straight line,

Specification of Ietters Patent.

againstthe tendency to gather or pucker,

sess this tendency.

Where the lne of curved to a greater or less extent in order a that the inner neck-band portion may be shorter-than the outer turned-down percon- Application filed January 22,-1916 Serial No. 73,526.

provisionfis made for lengthening or shortenlngi the inner neck-band portionin order I that, on the one hand, the lower part of the "neck-band may be permitted to be lengthened or stretched to adapt itselfto the neckband of the shirt, while the upper part of the collar adapts itself to the neck of the, wearer and, on, the other hand, to provide where the inner neck-band and theouter turned-down portion would otherwise be Patented Sept. '14, 1920.

of substantially the same length and posfold of the collar is tion, and in order that more room maybe left for, the necktie, the folding of the collar from a flat plece of .fitbl'lC resultsv 111 band and lengthening of the lower edge of the turned-down portion. According to the present invention, provision is madefor lengthening the inner neck-band portion, and particularly the lower part thereof, in order that it may properly, fit around the neck-band. of the collar,"and, at the same time, assume the'necessary position for the comfort oflthe wearer, and for proper appearance. A 1 i The invention comprises, generally; the provision, inv or a part of. the neck-band portionof the collar, of means for length ening or shortening the neck-band,and particularly the lower portion thereof which has to be mounted upon the neck-band of the shirt, in order that the collar may properly adjust itself to the neclcband, and in order,

' that it may present the proper appearance,

and assume the proper position, upon the neck of the wearer. t The invention will be further described in connection with the embodiments thereof illustrated on in which v Figure 1 represents a collar ofthe turned down type, embodying the invention; f Fig. 2 shows the collar of Fig. 1 unfolded; Fig. 3 is an enlarged View, with parts broken away, of one of the gussets of Figs. 1 and 2;

Fig. 4 gussets;

is a sectional view of one of the shortening of the lower edge of the neckthe accompanying drawings,v

Fig. 5 represents a modifiedembodiment of the invention; and

of the turned-down or folding portion 20f seamless fabric having aweakened portion at the fold as indicated at 8 111 Fig. 6. Tabs or tongues 3, of the usual construction, are

provided at the ends of the neck-band.por tion, and have therein buttonholes a, also of the usual construction.

In order to provide for the lengthening or shortening of the neck-band portion, as the case may be, suitable means is provided therein or'is made a part thereof, for permitting this lengthening or shortening. Such means, according to the present invention, takes the form of notches or grooves or indentations, preferably of J shape, which are provided with gussets closing the same and permitting or effecting the de sired expansion or contraction of the neck band to the desired extent, and thereby permitting the neck band to be lengthened or shortened and thereby adjusted to the neck band of the shirt. These notches are, in the preferred embodiment of the invention, closed with an elastic fabric which will permit the desired elongation, or which will effect the desired shortening, while ne ertheless presenting a yielding element or elements which will make the collar fit closely around the neck band of the shirt.

The V-shaped notches and gussets may be one or more in number, and may be differently arranged. In some cases they may be provided at both sides of the back buttonhole or near the front buttonholes, or symmetrically distributed therebetween. In other cases, they may be provided at the back buttonhole of the neck-band, and the buttonhole may be in the elastic material of the gusset, thereby providing for a 'reinforced buttonhole when desired, and, at the same time, for the desired yielding, and

lengthening or shortening.

In Fig. 2 the neclcband is shown as provided with V-shaped gussets 5, between the front and rear buttonholes, while in Figs. 1, 2 and 5 the gusset, of elastic material, is shown at 6 at the back of the collar, surrounding the back buttonhole which is made therein. The'curved portion of the lower edge of the collar-band is indicated in Fig. 5. A suitable construction of one of the gussets is shown in detail in Figs. 3 and 4.

From the above description it will be noted that the invention is capable of many different embodiments other than those specifically illustrated and described. The accompanying claims are accordingly intended to have a corresponding comprehensive interpretation.

hat I claim is:

1. A soft turned-down collar of multiply interwoven fabric having a straight fold portion of increased flexibility therein and provided in its inner or neck band portion with one or more indentations having gussets secured thereto and closing the same, substantially as described.

2. A soft turned-down collar of multiply interwoven fabric having a straight fold portion of increased flexibility therein and provided in its inner or neck band portion with an indentation at the back thereof, said indentation having a gusset closing the ame, and a buttonhole made in said gusset,

substantially as described.

3. A soft turned down collar of multiply interwoven fabric provided in its inn-er or neck-band portionwith one or more indentations, said indentations being provided with elastic material permitting lengthening and shortening thereof, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I affix my signature.

JOHN MANNING VAN HEUKSFJN. 

